Japan- dream destination for Indian jewellery exporters

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Rituparna Kakati | 14 Jun, 2008

With a rich tradition and continuous legacy of jewellery making, the gems jewellery sector in India has been contributing immensely to the economy of the country. At present, this is one of the fastest growing industries accounting for nearly 20 per cent of total Indian exports. Almost 1.3 million people are engaged directly or indirectly in this field.

India's gem & jewellery export
According to the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council of India, jewellery exports of the country in 2007-08 rose to $20.89 billion from $17.1 billion a year earlier, with cut and polished diamonds comprising $14.2 billion of the total, up from $10.9 billion. Exports of gold jewelry rose to $5.62 billion from $5.2 billion while that of colored gemstones rose to $276.42 million from $246.4 million. The gem and jewelry sector accounted for 13.41 percent of India's total merchandise exports in 2007-08.

Dependency upon the US, world's largest jewellery market
Worldwide, the gems and jewellery industry- estimated at over US$ 130 billion- is rapidly growing, and the US has continued to be the world's largest market. The US jewellery market, which accounted for 31 per cent of global jewellery sales in 2005, has also been remaining the most preferred destination for Indian jewellery exporters. In 2005, for example, jewellery exports from India were worth $4 billion of which more than 30 per cent were to the US.

Indian jewellery industry has diversified its markets since the last two years. In the year 2007-08, the US and Hong Kong markets account for 26 percent of total gem and jewelry exports of India while the UAE account for 21 percent. Other main importers of Indian gem and jewellery products includes countries like China, Russia, Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS). Thus, the heavy dependency of the Indian jewellery exporters upon US market alone has reduced to a great extent.

Indian exporters need to look for new markets
But still, the Indian gem and jewellery industry need to look for more other destinations. Recently, different factors like US recession, rupee appreciation, high interest rates, volatility of gold prices, withdrawal of Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) benefits and slowdown in all major markets have led to the decline of the sector globally. And it is why Indian jewellery exporters may soon find themselves in great problem unless they continue to explore new parts of the globe.

Japan- the next big market
In this scenario, Japan can be considered as the next great destination for Indian jewellery exporters. The jewellery industry in Japan covers myriads of product which range from personal ornaments and decorative costume jewellery to precious metals and gems. And despite the fact that the traditional sector of the jewellery market in Japan occupies almost 70 per cent, there are increasing opportunities for Indian exporters as the demand for unique and unusual designs growing everyday among the younger generation of the country. At present, this non-traditional sector occupies 16 per cent but is widely expected to increase rapidly over the coming years.

Whom to export- your targets
In Japan, there are a few big players in the jewellery industry. Almost 65 per cent of the entire retail jewellery market of the country comprises of SMEs such as jewellery specialty stores, jewellery and watch retailers. There are almost 30,000 such stores in Japan which can broadly be categorized into the following categories-

Independent & chain stores
Supermarkets
Department stores
Primary wholesalers or manufacturers
Other types of stores including apparel, cosmetics and mail order companies.

At present, large retail stores, department stores and chain stores are most widely engaged in direct importing. Most of the retail stores sell on consignment with merchandise from wholesalers due to lack of enough resources.

Jewellery items acclaimed by Japanese customers

Rings: Rings including engagement rings and wedding rings account for 40-60 % of Japan's jewellery market volume. Usually diamond studded engagement rings are most popular in Japan. Fashion rings using coloured stones are also popular among Japanese customers.
Necklaces and earrings: These jewellery items account for 40 % and 33 % of the total jewellery market in Japan, respectively.
Coloured stones and semi-precious stones: These types of jewellery items are also popular among Japanese women.

Pearls, onyx and quartz are produced in Japan, but the country has to rely upon foreign companies for precious stones or metals used in jewellery. In Japan, almost 60% of set jewellery is made of white precious metals (platinum, white gold, etc.). While targeting the Japanese jewellery market, it is very important for Indian exporters to keep these facts in mind.

Specific opportunities for Indian exporters
As individualism is gaining popularity in the society, fashion preferences are also changing in Japan. At present, unique and unusual designs is the key Indian exporters must turn to grab success in the jewellery market of the country. Find below a few products most frequently purchased by Japanese customers-

Opals: Opals (generally black and boulder opals) are acclaimed among women in their 40s and 50s. However, they are not popular among young women as they believe that opals are more suited to an older image. High cost is another factor here why this group is not interested in buying precious opals. Some less expensive opals like white opals, boulder matrix beads, doublets, and triplets, however, are popular among the young generation.
Pink diamonds: These diamonds are most popular among women in their 20s and 30s. Often set together with white diamonds in platinum/silver (usually gold is not preferred), pink diamonds are most widely used as engagement and marriage rings.
Silver jewellery: In Japan, silver jewellery is usually preferred by teenagers in their early 20s.
Pearls: Worn by the Japanese royal family, Japanese cultured pearls are most desired among consumers in Japan. Other pearl varieties like South Sea pearls are also acclaimed, and usually pinkish pearls are the most preferred in the Japanese market.

Exporters should also keep in mind that price ranges for jewellery items in Japan largely depend on the generation. Requirements may vary according to the income capability of different generations- young women/teenagers, working women, and women in their 40s and over.

Customs & regulations
In Japan, consumption tax is calculated by adding cost, insurance and freight (CIF) and customs duty, and then multiplying it by five per cent. The main tariffs in the Japanese jewellery industry are-

Gold jewellery- 5.2%
Silver and Platinum jewellery- 5.4%
No custom is charged for colored stones, pearls and diamonds.

While exporting, keep in mind that the Japanese authority is strict about trademark or design rights. Products made from ivory or coal may be prohibited.

No labelling standard is required to be maintained for coloured stones or jewellery. Packaging materials (labels, tags, external packaging, etc.) must have a material identifier mark displayed with information where the material is used.

In Japan, Quality Marking System is the authority to guarantee the quality of jewellery products and handicrafts made of precious metals like gold, platinum and silver. Your products must be stamped with the registered trademark of the Japan Jewellery Association and a labeller identification mark before being marketed in the country.

Usually, the Japanese gem evaluation laboratories issue grade certificates for high-quality diamonds.

Small things make a big difference

Taking part in big jewellery trade fairs can help SMEs to understand the trends in the Japanese jewellery market.
Best sales seasons in Japan are March and April. Christmas, Valentine's Day (16 February), White Day (16 March) are also prime gift-giving times.
Fancy jewel boxes and woven fabric sachet are usually used for packaging of jewellery items.
In Japan, success of a foreign business depends on being introduced by a prominent intermediary. Some distinguished importers in the Japanese jewellery market include Nagahori, Kuwayama, Kashikey, etc.
Cooperating with a Japanese jewellery designer is a good idea to develop jewellery accessories that appeal to Japanese consumers.
While considering market entry, take help from a reliable local agent or distributor. Research the target market thoroughly before entering into the market.