Arun Kejriwal | 17 Dec, 2023
India has been a big foreign exchange earner from IT and IT services.
Our leading companies were earlier targeted as body shopping outfits
and many thought that they would wind up post Y2K.
Nothing of that sort happened and India is at the forefront of
this sector and provides onshore and offshore services to the world.
Similarly,
India was considered a major player in the diamond cutting and
polishing business and providing labour. It was an important activity
but the share of the pie that India earned was very small and was highly
labour intensive.
Nobody thought India could go beyond that and
was considered just a skilled labour provider in the diamond trade. Come
the era of lab-grown diamonds and things began to change and change
quickly. The change was swift and affected the way diamonds were traded
globally.
De Beers is the world’s largest diamond trading company
and supplier. Lately, it spoke of reducing the supply of diamonds in
rough form to India and there were serious repercussions as the world
depends on India for the cutting and polishing of diamonds.
In the
case of natural diamonds, the rough diamonds are imported by Indian
companies and then cut and polished. Post this, a small quantity of
diamonds are converted into jewellery and sold domestically and also
finished jewellery is exported. The bulk of the imports are re-exported
in cut and polished form.
Surat is one of the most significant
places in the diamond trade in India. The place employs thousands of
artisans in the business of cutting and polishing. This is a skilled job
and there are many families where the skill set has passed from
generation to generation.
The city is also famous for textiles but
the dominant business is the diamond cutting and polishing. The advent
of lab grown diamonds has changed the outlook of this industry
completely.
First, the entire value chain of lab-grown diamonds
being manufactured today is based in India. These roughs are then cut
and polished and then either sold in India or abroad. Jewellery is also
made from these and finished jewellery is exported all over the world.
The
most important facet of lab-grown diamonds business is that the labour
charges paid to the artisan for cutting or polishing is the same per
diamond irrespective of the fact that it is a natural diamond or
lab-grown diamond.
Second, the entire value chain from diamond
manufacturing to cutting and polishing and then converting into
jewellery is all captured in India. It is the greatest thing that could
have happened in this business.
The last visit of the Indian PM to
the United States saw the US First Lady, Jill Biden, being gifted a
lab-grown diamond which was manufactured, cut and polished and fully
processed in India. This was gifted and acted as a great testimony to
India’s quality standards and manufacturing capabilities.
One
could say that the gift was a way of saying to the US and the world that
India has arrived on the world stage and would be a significant player
in this business where we have a major edge in the cutting and polishing
business already.
The advent and growth in acceptance of
lab-grown diamonds, in fact, is the best thing that could have happened
to India from a business perspective.
On a lighter note, it may
also be said that the PM was acting as a mascot for the lab grown
diamond industry of India and used the stage of the USA to make a pitch.
I
had the pleasure of meeting some large Indian entrepreneurs who are in
the lab grown diamond business manufacturing and I asked them with the
advent of technology and refinement in the business of growing diamonds
whether the Kohinoor diamond taken from India and lying in the UK could
ever be replicated. While all said yes, the time to do so really shocked
me.
I was told that in the next five years or so, this event
would happen. Just imagine on a lighter note if the Kohinoor is
replicated, it would lose its value as a one of its kind natural
diamond.
What began as a laboratory exercise has today become a
fad with the younger generation who always hated diamonds as being too
expensive and not having a resale value as gold and gold jewellery.
These people are now flocking to buy lab-grown diamonds.
They are
available at much cheaper prices which vary from 10-15 per cent in value
of natural diamonds, have lustre and shine and look as good as natural.
A naked eye cannot differentiate.
A win-win situation for
manufacturers who are setting up reactors to produce the lab grown
diamonds in Surat, cutting and polishing them there, and then exporting
in multi form as jewellery or just finished diamonds.
Local demand
for lab-grown diamond jewellery has grown by leaps and bounds as
affordability has increased and also acceptability. It has become
fashionable and trendy.
In time to come in the near future, quantum of exports from India of lab grown diamonds would grow manifold.
(Arun Kejriwal is the founder of Kejriwal Research and Investment Services. The views expressed are personal)